Category: Articles

When purchasing a custom-tailored garment there are so many available options with a range of different price points. In this article, I would like to share a few things to consider when purchasing your next tailored garment. 

Two of the most important things to consumers are generally the look and fit of the finished product but it’s just as important to consider garment construction and the methods and materials used to tailor your garment when making an informed purchasing decision.

Canvas

The canvas is a layer of sturdy interfacing between the outer fabric and inner lining of a jacket. The canvas comes in two types, floating or fused (glued). Traditionally jackets were made with a full length floating canvas using hair from horse tail bushings, similar to the process of sheering sheep (no animal harm in the process).

This floating canvas provides a structured look, ensuring that your jacket will hold its shape over time and form to your body the more you wear it. This method is the preferred choice for consumers who desire an excellent drape, comfortable fit and superior look.

Due to the increase in mass manufacturing, large garment suppliers began to employ the use of a fused half canvas to construct garments and mimic the structure of a floating full canvas. This process is considerably less expensive to produce but if poorly done can damage the durability of the garment creating a permanent pucker or bubbling as the glue degrades over time.

Branded Cloth

The second thing that many consumers overlook is understanding the benefits of selecting a branded fabric from a reputable mill. Very prominent in custom tailoring is fabric from mills that are unknown with no transparency to the practices or processes for cloth that you will wear on your skin.

Branded fabrics have a reputation to uphold. These companies have a strong focus on the quality of their product and the environmental sustainability of their processes. With the increase in synthetic materials and chemicals to provide cheaper cloth it makes a world of difference to select cloth from a brand that demonstrates traceability and transparency from raw materials to finished product.

It’s certainly not worth saving a few dollars to be exposed to potentially harmful material. Reputable fabric brands are more consistent with every aspect of how they conduct business. With this consistency comes reliability.

Economy of Scale

Finally, I always encourage consumers to “do the math”. Microeconomics 101 tells us that there are cost advantages to scale or increase production while being able to decrease cost per unit. A cheaply constructed garment may look good on the outside but economically only benefits the manufacturer as they don’t last as long and keep replacement expenses more frequent.

Often when consumers are presented products that looks good and cost less it is easy to assume that one is obtaining a good deal but as the saying goes, “good things are seldom cheap and cheap things are seldom good”. It is important to understand and make your purchasing decisions on actual value rather than perceived.

1. The Proper Fitting Dress Shirt

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen professionals in dress shirts where the shoulders and sleeves were too long, or the waist had too much slack in it. Investing in a custom-fitted shirt will alleviate buying a shirt that is the proper neck and sleeve length but does not fit well everywhere else

A great fitting shirt keeps you confident for the times you feel to remove your jacket during a presentation or on a warm day at the office

When you feel better, it will always impact your level of confidence

2. The Bowtie and The Tuxedo

In recent years there’s been a resurgence of the bowtie with the everyday suit, but my humble opinion is bowties are best with a Tuxedo. When wearing a bowtie (without a tuxedo), it can draw attention to the bowtie giving the impression that you are trying to be sophisticated, seem smart or fashion-forward. Unfortunately, at times it can do the exact opposite. The Andersonn Bespoke advice would be to reserve the bowtie for your formal events and wear a necktie with everything else.

3. No Sports Sunglasses with your Suit

Have you ever seen a business professional in a nice suit and large, reflective sports sunglasses? Enough said. I can’t say this enough – small details matter – Invest in a classic pair of Ray Ban’s or Tom Fords to complete your look when wearing a suit and shades. The right sunglasses will add an element of relaxed sophistication to your look. The Andersonn Bespoke rule of thumb is “If you wear it on the ski hill it will not work with your suit!”.

4. The Trouser 2” Too Long

In the tailoring world, we refer to the length of your dress trouser as the trouser break. There are typically three options which include no break – where the trouser meets the top the shoe, a medium break – where the trouser falls slightly over the shoe and a full break – where the trouser pretty much covers the shoe. The Andersonn Bespoke recommendation is a trouser with no break or a medium break as these options offer the cleanest look and can be especially advantageous for the shorter gentleman looking for an elongated appearance. Too much bunching over your dress shoe supports a much less polished look and conveys a lack of concern for personal attire. For the less adventurous, A medium break is always the safe bet.

5. The Necktie Length and Width

A necktie that is too short will bring attention to your stomach and appear as if you’re wearing something intended for someone much smaller than you. Also, it may be a sign that your knot is too big. Consider using a slimmer knot style or purchasing a longer length necktie to accommodate your preferred knot. Your tie should extend slightly over your waistband or belt, and the width of your necktie should be proportional to your suit jacket lapel.

6. The Proper Jacket Sleeve Length

An improper sleeve length will make or break the look of your jacket. A jacket with proper sleeve length shows that you pay attention to detail and that how others perceive you matters. Tom Ford said, “Dressing well is a form of good manners.” A jacket sleeve that extends to long has the same impact as a long trouser. Ignoring this detail makes your jacket look big and can minimize the value of the garment.

7. The End to Square and Pointy Dress Shoes

“Shoes transform your body language and attitude. They lift you physically and emotionally.” — Christian Louboutin. Here’s my final note – stick with a classic oxford, monk strap or loafer as they will always stand the test of time and keep your look clean and professional. Square shoes only make your feet look stubby and pointy dress shoes make your feet look disproportionately big (also, you run the risk of appearing clownish). There’s nothing like cutting ten while wearing a plain or cap toe, smooth or full-grain leather dress shoe that in the words of Christian Louboutin “…lifts you physically and emotionally.”

Q. What is the Andersonn Bespoke elevator pitch?

A. Andersonn Bespoke is a Custom Tailoring Boutique designed for the busy professional who is serious about his image.

Q. What makes Andersonn Bespoke different?

A. Andersonn Bespoke is mobile, catering to clients that prefer or require a tailoring service that will meet where convenient including home or office!

Q. Being mobile, is Andersonn Bespoke limited in cloth selection?

A. Not at all, Andersonn Bespoke provides fabrics from top European mills some of which have been producing cloth since the 1700s. The selection includes a wide array suitable for each season, special occasions including business wear, formal wear, and fabrics for traveling professionals. Andersonn Bespoke provides cloth from Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Cerruti, Loro Piana, Zignone, Reda 1865, Dormeuil and Caccioppoli. 

Q. What drives Andersonn Bespoke?

A. Thoroughly satisfied clients and a passion for seeing each client reflect personal excellence through the right wardrobe choices. The impact attire can have on an individual’s vocation can be significant whether it’s a presenter at a conference wearing an ill-fitting suit or an executive conveying a strong sense of confidence, detail, and creativity by the way they curate an outfit carefully.

Q. How significant is attention to detail?

A. Details are critically important. I like to say “the difference is always in the details.” Most times it’s the things that seem small or insignificant that have the most significant impact on attire. For example, you can wear a great suit with a shirt having a poorly constructed collar and immediately it makes the outfit look bad. Conversely, an average suit with a well-constructed dress shirt can make the entire ensemble look great! Items like collar/lapel style, type of chest pocket and button placement matter and create a world of difference. Your garment should not only fit well but should have each component in its proper place for it to look great.

Q.  What else is vital to Andersonn Bespoke when dealing with clients?

A. Service, service, service! It is of primary importance to do whatever it takes to ensure that every client is happy with their garment and equally satisfied with the overall experience. The passion for the business is the catalyst to deliver exceptional service. Andersonn Bespoke thrives on providing an experience that keeps each client confident, educated and informed.

Q. What defines a bespoke suit?

A. An age-old tradition where a draft of your unique pattern including each body and posture nuance is made entirely from scratch. This drawn pattern is the flat lay design ready to be traced onto the cloth. Traditional bespoke garments were all handcrafted but over time and with advancements in technology Andersonn Bespoke offers two garment construction options in addition to full handmade namely machine-made and half-hand half-machine. These additional options allow for cost savings and faster turnaround.

Q. Describe in brief the process?

A. The process begins with an initial fitting/consultation where we take over three dozen measurements, select fabric and create a style profile. When making a full hand-made suit, a basted fitting is conducted with a final fitting once the garment is hand-delivered. The entire process takes 4-6 weeks to complete.